Rabbits, guinea pigs, hamsters, parrots, bearded dragons and more: the world of small and exotic pets is wonderfully varied, and wonderfully particular. Each species has its own very specific needs, and many of the health problems we see in these pets come down to diet, housing, temperature or lighting.
That means good care at home really can prevent a lot of problems. And who better to introduce this guide than our very own feathered receptionist?
Mango’s Corner: meet Mango
Hello! I’m Mango, the practice’s resident yellow-headed Amazon parrot and unofficial Head of Customer Relations. Look out for my tips throughout this guide.
The 30-second version
- Small and exotic pets are experts at hiding illness, so act early if something seems different.
- Rabbits and guinea pigs need unlimited hay, and guinea pigs need vitamin C every day.
- A rabbit that stops eating or stops producing droppings needs to see a vet the same day.
- Birds have very sensitive lungs. Keep them away from kitchen fumes, aerosols and smoke.
- Reptiles depend on the right heat and lighting. Most reptile health problems are linked to their set-up.
The golden rule: they hide illness
Many small and exotic pets are prey animals in the wild, so they’re experts at hiding any sign of weakness. By the time a rabbit, guinea pig or bird looks obviously unwell, they may already be quite poorly. Small changes, such as eating a bit less, being quieter or sitting in an unusual position, are worth acting on early.
Vet advice Don’t ‘wait and see’ with small and exotic pets. If something seems different, seek professional veterinary advice promptly.
Who’s who: needs at a glance
Every species has its own social life and must-haves. Here’s a quick comparison of some of the most popular small and exotic pets.
Species | Company | Top must-have |
Rabbits | Usually happiest with another neutered rabbit | Unlimited hay, plus lots of space to hop, run and hide |
Guinea pigs | At least one other guinea pig | Vitamin C every day, plus unlimited hay |
Syrian hamsters | Usually live alone | A large enclosure with deep bedding for burrowing |
Rats | Groups of their own kind | Plenty of things to climb, explore and chew |
Gerbils | Pairs or small groups | Deep bedding for digging tunnels |
Bearded dragons | Usually housed alone | The right heat gradient and UVB lighting |
Parrots | Lots of daily social time with their people | Toys, puzzles and things to do every day |
These are general guidelines. Needs can vary between individual animals, so ask us if you’re unsure about your pet.
Rabbits
Diet. Hay (or grass) should make up the vast majority of a rabbit’s diet. Provide unlimited good-quality hay every day; a popular rule of thumb is a pile at least as big as your rabbit. Add a small portion of fresh, rabbit-safe leafy greens and a small amount of rabbit pellets. Carrots and fruit are sugary and should be occasional treats only (sorry, cartoon rabbits). Muesli-style mixes aren’t recommended, as they have been linked to dental and digestive problems.
Teeth. Rabbits’ teeth grow continuously throughout their lives. Chewing hay is what keeps them worn down, which is one reason hay is so important.
Company. Rabbits are sociable animals and are usually happiest living with another neutered rabbit. Rabbits and guinea pigs have different needs and shouldn’t be housed together.
Space. Rabbits need far more space than many traditional hutches provide. They should be able to hop, run, stand up fully on their back legs and hide away when they want to.
Health care. Rabbits need vaccinating against myxomatosis and both strains of RVHD. Neutering is also recommended for most pet rabbits; see our Prevention guide.
Did you know? The happy hop A happy rabbit will sometimes leap into the air, twisting and kicking as they go. It’s called a ‘binky’, and it’s one of the best sights in the pet world. Guinea pigs have their own version, called ‘popcorning’.
Important: rabbit emergencies
A rabbit that stops eating or stops producing droppings needs to be seen by a vet urgently, the same day. This can be a sign of a serious slowdown of the gut. In warm weather, check your rabbit’s bottom every day for dirt or maggots (flystrike), and call us immediately on 01843 808344 if you find any.
Guinea pigs
- Vitamin C every day. Like us, guinea pigs can’t make their own vitamin C, so it has to come from their diet. Offer good-quality guinea pig pellets and fresh vegetables rich in vitamin C, alongside unlimited hay. Rabbit food isn’t suitable for guinea pigs.
- Company. Guinea pigs are social and should live with at least one other guinea pig. They’re also chatty, with a whole range of squeaks, purrs and ‘wheeks’, especially when they hear the fridge door.
- Temperature. Guinea pigs are sensitive to both heat and cold, so their home needs to be sheltered, draught-free and out of direct sun.
- Teeth grow continuously, just like rabbits’.
Signs to look out for include eating less, weight loss, crusty or runny eyes, hair loss or scratching, and noisy breathing.
Vet advice Guinea pigs can go downhill quickly. If you notice any of these signs, seek professional veterinary advice promptly.
Hamsters, gerbils, rats and mice
- Know your species. Syrian hamsters are usually solitary and should live alone, while rats, mice and gerbils are generally sociable and do better with company of their own kind. Research your species carefully.
- Chewing is essential. Their front teeth grow continuously, so provide safe items to gnaw on.
- Room to burrow. Many small rodents love to dig, so give them a large enclosure with deep bedding.
- Breathing problems are common in pet rats. Sneezing, noisy breathing or a red-brown discharge around the eyes or nose should be checked by a vet.
- Diarrhoea in a small rodent can be serious and needs prompt attention.
Vet advice Small rodents are tiny, so problems can become serious quickly. If you’re worried, seek professional veterinary advice the same day.
Birds: Mango’s speciality
Birds hide illness, too. Warning signs include sitting fluffed up for long periods, sleeping more than usual, sitting on the floor of the cage, bobbing the tail with each breath, changes in the droppings, discharge from the eyes or nostrils, eating less, a change in voice and feather plucking.
Clean air is vital. Birds have very sensitive lungs. Non-stick (PTFE) pans and some other appliances can give off fumes when overheated that can kill a bird very quickly. Aerosols, scented candles, air fresheners and smoke can also be harmful. Keep birds well away from the kitchen.
Diet. Seed-only diets are usually unbalanced. Most pet birds do better on a diet suited to their species, which may include a good-quality pellet and fresh vegetables. Avocado is highly toxic to birds, and chocolate, caffeine, alcohol and salty foods should be avoided too.
Mental stimulation. Parrots are highly intelligent and sociable. Without enough company, toys and things to do, they can become bored and stressed, which may lead to problems such as feather plucking or screaming. Foraging toys, where they have to work for their food, are a brilliant boredom-buster.
A lifelong commitment. Larger parrots, like Mango, can live for several decades, so think carefully about the long-term commitment.
Hazards at home. Watch out for open doors and windows, mirrors, ceiling fans, other pets, and toxic metals such as lead and zinc, which can be found in old paint and some poorly made cages and toys.
Mango’s top tip
I love you all dearly, but please keep me well away from your non-stick frying pan! Kitchen fumes can be very dangerous for birds like me.
Did you know? Built for chatting Amazon parrots, including yellow-headed Amazons like Mango, are known for being some of the best talkers in the parrot world. They can pick up words, phrases and even the sound of the phone ringing. Be careful what you say around them!
Vet advice Birds can become seriously ill very quickly. If your bird seems unwell, seek professional veterinary advice the same day.
Reptiles
Heat and light are everything. Reptiles rely on their surroundings to control their body temperature. Most need a temperature gradient, with a warm end and a cooler end, so they can move between them. Many species, including bearded dragons, also need UVB lighting to help them use calcium properly.
Metabolic bone disease can develop when reptiles don’t get the right UVB lighting, calcium or diet. Signs can include soft or bendy bones, swollen limbs, a soft jaw, trembling and weakness.
Check your kit. UVB bulbs gradually lose strength even while they’re still glowing, so replace them in line with the manufacturer’s guidance. Use thermostats to control heat sources, check temperatures with thermometers, and guard heat sources to prevent burns.
Diet. Diet and supplement needs vary hugely between species, so research your species carefully, and ask us if you’re unsure.
Signs of illness include not eating, weight loss, lethargy, problems shedding, swellings, discharge from the mouth or nose, breathing with the mouth open and sunken eyes.
Hand hygiene. Reptiles can carry Salmonella bacteria without showing signs of illness. Always wash your hands after handling them or cleaning their enclosure, supervise children, and keep reptiles and their equipment away from kitchens and food preparation areas.
Did you know? The bearded dragon wave Bearded dragons sometimes slowly wave one front leg in a circle. This ‘arm wave’ is generally thought to be a social signal, often seen as a sign of submission or acknowledgement towards another dragon. Their ‘beard’ can also darken and puff out when they’re stressed or showing off.
Vet advice Many reptile health problems are linked to their set-up. If your reptile seems unwell, seek professional veterinary advice, and bring photos of their enclosure, lighting and thermostat settings with you.
Thinking of getting an exotic pet?
Do your research before you buy. Lifespans vary enormously, from around two years for many hamsters to several decades for larger parrots, so make sure you’re ready for the commitment. Find out about the species’ space, diet, temperature and lighting needs, and the ongoing costs of care, including veterinary treatment.
Before you bring an exotic pet home
- ☐ I’ve researched how long the species lives and what it needs
- ☐ I know whether it needs company of its own kind
- ☐ I have the right enclosure, heating and lighting ready
- ☐ I’ve budgeted for food, equipment and veterinary care
- ☐ I’ve spoken to a vet about health checks and vaccinations
One last thing from me
Every species is different, so if you have a question about your small or exotic pet, give the team a call. They know their stuff (I’ve trained them well).
General information only. This guide is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice, examination, diagnosis or treatment, and every animal is different. If you think your pet needs urgent attention, call us immediately on 01843 808344. Services and techniques described are subject to your vet's clinical judgement. Information correct at the time of publication (October 2026).
